About 33 km from Taitung, Green Island (also called Ludao) is one of the best places for snorkeling and diving. This island was once used to exile political prisonners during martial law period (1949-1987). This hidden paradise has a lot to offer to travelers and is one of my favorite place to go on a vacation. Because there are lots of activities to do, I suggest you take at least 3 days to explore Green Island.
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Table of Content
Getting there
Because it is quite hard to get to Green Island, you should plan to take a few days off for this long trip. Many people come from Taipei, stay in Yilan or Hualien a few days, then go to Taitung to take the ferry.
The trip from Taipei to Taitung via Train (TRA) costs 783$ and takes 3.5 to 4.5 hours. (Puyuma or Tze-Chiang Limited Express). It is also possible to get a flight from Taipei to Taitung via UNI Air (book here) or Mandarin Airlines (book here) for 2000 to 2500$ NT. The flight takes about an hour.
Check out this table for all means of transportation to get to Taitung.
By ferry
There are a few ferries from Fugang Harbor that goes to Green Island: Triumph, Golden Star, Green Island Star and Uranus. The trip takes around 50 mins and costs about 920$ NT roundabout. A one way ticket is 420$ NT. A taxi trip from the train station to the harbor will cost you from 200 to 350$ NT.
If you want to reserve the ferry in advance online, I recommend booking via KLOOK here.
The trip can be a bit shaky so better take medicine for sea sickness. In my case, it went well without but some people are more sensitive than others. In the worse case scenario, there is a plastic bag in the seat pocket in front of you during the trip.
By plane
It is possible to take a flight from Taitung Airport to Green Island. The flight is only 15 mins but the seats are limited to 19 passengers so you should reserve in advance. This flight costs around 1000$ NT.
Click here for more information.
History
There have been archeological evidence that showed that people inhabited Green Island as long as 1000 BC. According to aboriginal myth, the island was used as a land bridge for migration and was called Sanasai.
The first Han Chinese immigrants arrived in 1800 and named the island Huoshaodao (Fire-burned Island). That name was in reference to the fires the local people would make to guide the fisherman to the shore.
Captain Belcher sailed by in 1845 and wrote that the population of the island was of about a hundred and fifty Chinese from the region of Amoy.
Green Island served as a prison for political prisonners during martial law. During the White Terror, prisonners would get tortured there. After their release, many prisoners went to establish the Democratic Progressive Party. Some famous prisoners were Shih Ming-Teh and cartoonist Bo Yang.
In the 1970’s, there was a great demand in the raising of Sika deer for their antlers. At one point, there were more of these animals than people on the island. You can still see lots of Sika deer on the island today, where some shops, use them as pets to bring in tourists.
Taiwanese Sika deer to attract customers
Transportation
The best way to travel Green Island would have to be by scooter. The 18 Km road goes all the way around the island. As soon as you arrive at Nanliao Harbor, there are many scooter renters who will be waiting for you.
There are different scooter models available from a range of 250$ to 350$ NT per day. It was very easy to rent a scooter. They did not ask to see my driving license. It is also possible to rent a small car for 1500$ NT but a scooter will be a best option.
It takes about an hour to travel around the island without stopping.
Places to visit
North
Lyudao Lighthouse
This 33m high lighthouse was built in 1939 after the ship SS President Hoover hit the island reef and sank on December 1937 while it was going to the Philippines from Japan. The American Red Cross covered the cost of the construction of the landmark to thank the inhabitants of Green Island for rescuing the sailors.
Originally designed by a Japanese engineer, it was destroyed during World War II after an airstrike but was later rebuilt in 1948. It later opened to the public and became a tourist attraction.
Chaikou Snorkling Area
Chaikou is at the north of the island and is one of the three diving areas of Green Island. Most reefs are Fringing Reefs and are directly attached to the shore of the island. It makes it very easy to go snorkeling to these beautiful reefs and discover the amazing aquatic life. There are snorkeling paths that allow easy access to the reefs, while protecting them.
During the strong winds from June to August, this is the best place to go snorkeling at that time. Close to a lot of BnB’s, it’s location is very convenient.
Human Rights Monument
Constructed to commemorate the people who fought for Taiwan’s freedom, democracy and human rights, this monument was built in 2001 by the Taiwanese government so people can remember about the past.
If you go down the stairs, you can see the name of all the political prisoners on the walls of the monument. The purpose of the Park is to give the visitors a better understanding of this period of history written in blood and tears, in the hope that it will never be repeated again.
Green Island White Terror Memorial Park
Two prisons were built on the island in 1951 and 1970 to imprison political dissidents to the KMT. Many people were killed during the White Terror that lasted more than 40 years. Over time, these prisons were a symbol of political suppression. Now, it serves as a museum for tourists to see what happened to political dissidents in the past.
Bagua Building
The Bagua Building is in the form of a cross and the two floors are separated into eight areas with 113 cells. Most of the prisoners were incarcerated in the first floor and the second floor was reserved for special prisoners who weren’t allowed to communicate with other inmates.
Solitary confinement on the second floor of the prison.
Prison Stories
Triple Rocks
Three uniquely shaped rocks stand out near Gongguan Village. They are right by the Museum. They were shaped by the erosion of the sea waves over many years.
If you look at these rocks closely, you can observe that the biggest one has what seems as a helmet; like a general observing his soldiers.
Prisoners would excavate the rocks in that area, when they were put to hard labor.
General Rock
There are a few natural pools by the rocks where the emerald water is amazingly clear. You can go for a swim but watch out for the sharp volcanic rocks.
I have seen the local people bring diving gear so I think there is a secret diving spot by the coast hidden to the common tourists.
Yanzidong (燕子洞(昔日刑場)
Yanzidong has a cave called the Swallow cave if you walk for about 30 mins along the coast. It is a vast cave, home to the swallow bird. You can walk up to pretty high to get a good view of the coast but be careful not to slip on the rocks.
This vast natural cave used to be used as a stage for political plays that prisoners were forced to participate in for the authorities. The cave was also used as the location to where dead prisoners were cremated.
It is also said that during the Japanese occupation, the cave was used as execution ground for some prisoners.
The political prisoners who died of disease or suicide were buried here. This place is refered to as the 13th Squadron. The prisoners would be divided in 12 squadrons and the 13th one was made in honor of their undying spirit. Prison officials were also buried there.
Niu tou shan (牛頭山)
Also called Ox Head Hill, it is named like that because if you see it from the base of the hill, it looks like an ox with curling horns. This place is the perfect spot to admire the sunset. The small 10 mins hike brings you to a viewpoint that has a perfect view of the north coast of the island.
East
Guanyin Cave (觀音洞)
According to a legend, some fisherman lost at sea followed a fireball that led them to safety and to a statue of Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. They later set up an altar for offerings.
It takes about 5 mins to visit the cave because it is pretty small. The gate is quite impressive though and there is a souvenir shop nearby that sell drinks and food. If you follow the road, you will arrive at the Sika deer animal park.
Youzihu (柚子湖)
Youzihou is an area rich with places to discover. You can get a good view of the area. The road down is steep and quite curvy so be careful and don’t go too fast. There is an abandoned village at the bottom that you can visit.
On the left is the famous Sea Cave that you should definitely check out. If you continue on the right, you will arrive at a secret location where you can go cliff jumping and snorkel in an underwater cave. It is the perfect place to stargaze, as there is no light pollution at night.
Amazing scenery from the shore.
Sea Cave
It takes about 10 minutes to get to this impressive cave. On the left side of the shore, you can’t miss it. You just need to follow the path and you will soon arrive. There is a tide pool near the cave entrance, so bring your swimsuit.
Once you follow the trail that leads to the left side of the cave, you will be able to enjoy this immense place with a nice view of the coast. It is a great place to take a few pictures.
Blue Cave and Cliff Jumping
If you follow the right side of the coastline, you will arrive at Blue Cave after a 30 min walk. It can be hard to walk on the volcanic ash so plan on bringing some shoes. A lot of tour guides bring tourists to this secret location to go snorkeling and cliff jumping. It was an amazing experience! The cliff is quite high so better go while other people are there if case of an accident.
Little Great Wall
Named for its ressemblance to the Great Wall of China, Little Great Wall is a 200m small hike that leads to amazing views of the coastline. From the two pavilions, you can see the famous rock formations: the Pekinese Rock and Sleeping Beauty.
Haishenping
Haishenping is the name of the area. This bay is surrounded by volcanic rock formations that ressemble a dog and a sleeping lady.
Sleeping Beauty and Pekinese Rock
This bay is surrounded by volcanic rock formations that ressemble a dog and a sleeping lady.
Confucius Rock
This rock formation is named that way because of its ressemblance with the famous Chinese philosopher Confucius facing the wall and reflecting. The rock stack is made of various sized black or grey olivine, augite basalt, amphibole and andesite.
South
Zaorih Hot Springs (朝日溫泉)
After a long day of driving, hiking and snorkeling, nothing beats relaxing in the hot springs during the sunset. The entrance fee is 200$ NT but is cheaper if you book via a hostel or hotel. Because it is on the East tip of the island, it is also a great spot to see the sunrise. Zhaori translates to Facing the Sun.
As saltwater hot springs are very rare (only Japan and Italy have some), this place is quite popular. This place is open 24h from March to November and from 6am to 10pm during off season.
After a shower to rince off the sunscreen, you will have the choice of different temperature pools to lay in and relax. As you move your way from cold water to hot water, it will boost your blood circulation and relieve pain. There are seven pools to choose and three more by the sea.
The complex is mixed, both male and female can enjoy the pools. Do not forget to bring your swimsuit and a bathing cap as it is obligatory. If you don’t have one, you can buy one at the store for around 100$ NT. Often times, hostels will have many bathing caps they can lend you for free.
Did you know that you could even cook food in the hot springs? You can buy eggs or vegetables and cook them with the hot water in the designated space for food.
Fanchuanbi Grassland (帆船鼻大草原)
Don’t miss out on this spot if you are near the hot springs. Just follow the stairs up from the parking lot of Zhaori Hot Springs and you can admire the view of the whole area for free. It takes about 30 mins to get to the top. This place is quite steep but many people go there to see the coatline and a great view of the hot springs. You can even see mountain goats.
Dabaisha (大白沙)
Dabaisha means Great White Beach. This beach has gorgeous white sand great for photoshoots and for snorkeling. There is a road that leads to the coral reef so you might see divers preparing their dive.
You will see lots of sea creatures and even sea turtles if you are lucky. The beach is surrounded by coral, congloremates of shell fragments (known as beach rocks), as well as native tropical coastal forests where native hermit crabs inhabit.
There are five independant coral reefs and some colorful corals including Porites, Gorgonacea, Acropora Porifera, Dendronephthya, as well as sea bream, butterfly fish as well as other tropical fish, which live with temperature of 20 F inthe sea.
Horseshoe Bridge (馬蹄橋)
This is a cool place to stop by to admire the waves. Right by the bridge, there is a small cave. I saw people swimming there so I assume it must be a secret location for snorkeling.
West
Guiwanbi (龜灣鼻)
A couple of fisherman were fishing using a bottle and a bait. It must be a local practice. I wonder what kind of fish they can catch using that technique.
Shihlang Diving
Shihlang beach is the most popular for diving because of the underwater postbox. This tourist attraction is very popular and can be very crowded on the weekends so come early if you want to be alone. Even with many people, the underwater reef is so vast that it is still worthwhile.
Underwater Postbox, photo by Chihyi Wu 吳芝譯
The postbox is pretty deep and is only accessible if you are an experienced free diver or have diving gear.
The area is rich with sea life and corals so plan to spend at least an hour there to experience it fully.
Admire the stars
Because the light pollution is very low in Green Island, it is a great place to admire the stars or to do Astrophotography.
If there is no Full Moon, you will be able to see the Milky Way.
The trick to astrophotography is to take a long exposure picture (10s and more) at a low aperture (f1.8 to 2.8) so the light can come to the sensor.
My settings: ISO 800, F2.8 at 25 sec exposure with a Canon m50 and a 20mm lense and post-editing in Lightroom.
Local delicacies
Shaved Ice with algea
Shaved-ice is a local delicacy perfect for these hot sunny days at the beach. It’s a big dish that cost around 200$ NT and is meant to be shared. They add Green Island algea with the shaved-ice which doesn’t have a strong flavor as people would expect. It was quite nice. There are many flavors available and many shops serve shaved-ice along the road to the West of the island.
Some shaved-ice flavors are : Fresh Fruits Ice, Red Beans Snow Ice with Milk, Mango Snow Ice, Red Bean Macha Snow Ice, Milk Snow Ice, Hami Melon Snow Ice, Chocolate Snow Ice…
Grilled Flying Fish
This deep-fried flying fish was very crispy and quite the experience. Beware of the small fish bones! If you feel courageous, you can even eat the eyeballs.
Taiwanese Brunch
You can always try the local specialties: Century Egg, Blood Pudding, Algea drink and Fish Ball Soup.
Book a tour
Snorkeling
There are three main snorkel beaches: Chaikou, Shihlang and Dabaisha, but you can always find a cool secret spot along the coast. If you come to Green Island, you must try snorkeling at least once, the underwater life is just amazing. You will sea a lot of different colorful fishes and maybe a sea turtle if you are lucky.
Sometimes, it’s best to book with a tour guide. They will bring you to the best spots and even take pictures of you underwater so it is money well spent. Click here to book a reservation.
Experience diving
Sometimes, it can be hard to get your PADI certification (diving license): you need to have a 3-4 day training at least and do a written test before getting certified. The training is quite expensive as well.
If you do not have your diving certification (PADI) and want to explore fully the sea, then this is for you. After a small training, a diving instructor will accompany you underwater and be in charge of your valves so you don’t need to worry. I’ve done it and had a great experience. They know the ocean like no other so you know you will have an amazing time.
Click here to book a reservation.
Advanced diving
Photo by Mael BALLAND on Unsplash
There are many unique diving spots in the island itself, like the Underwater Church, Crocodile Mouth, Clown Fish Island and more! WIth an itinerary suitable for more experienced divers, get to encounter hours of fantastic diving and exploring the beautiful underwater paradise. Start with a quick refresher, then head to the pier for the dive! You get two tanks per person, so that's double the fun! After the first dive, rest up, relax and have a quick snack. Then suit up again and have another go - ideal for experienced divers looking for a fun and challenging dive.
Click here to book a reservation.
Where to eat
Mr. Hot Dog Restaurant Bar
Seafood Fry
Ice cream shops
苦窯監獄海草冰
Brother Story
Ice Jail
Where to stay
My top picks are:
Slow Island Hostel (綠島緩島旅宿):
This hostel was very cheap and very convenient because of the location. Right across Mr. Hot Dog, it was easy to get a few drinks and enjoy the nightlife of Green Island, then go to sleep. The staff was super friendly and helpful to plan the perfect vacation.
They even have a pool and cute pets. The room was comfortable and breakfast is included. It costs 826$ NT per night.
No. 9 Green Island Backpackers Inn:
This hostel is right by the gas station after Nanliao Harbor. It is very well placed and is very cheap. It costs around 850$ NT per night.
Sanasai Inn:
This beautiful hostel only costs 693$ NT per night in the dorm and is probably the best value you can get. It is right by Nanliao, so the location is perfect.
Amany Holiday Hotel:
If you feel like having a little bit more comfort, this 3 star hotel is the place for you. For a couple. the Standard Double Room comes with a breakfast for two and a balcony for around 2000$ NT.
Check out the other options below on Agoda for the best prices.
3 days itinerary recommendation
Day 1
Ferry 10am - Restaurant - Lyudao Lighthouse - Chaikou snorkel - Triple Rocks - White Terror Memorial Park -General Rock - Yanzidong - Swallow Cave - Niutoushan - Restaurant
Day 2
Coffee - Guanyin Cave - Youzihu - Sea Cave - Cliff jumping - Little Great Wall - Haishenping - Sleeping Beauty Rock - Pekinese Dog Rock - Confucius Rock - Zihping - Dabaisha - Snorkel - Horseshoe Bridge - Gueiwan - Fanchuanbi - Zhaorih Hot Springs - Restaurant - Nightlife
Day 3
Shihlang Diving - Underwater mailbox - scooter return - ferry 1 pm - train back home
Have you ever been to Green Island? Comment below what your favorite place was. Share with your friends you want to travel Taiwan with.
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